Rekle u suvremenom odijevanju Istočne Hrvatske

master's thesis

• Title (english): Reklas in Contemporary Clothing of Eastern Croatia
• Author: Antonela Jukić
• Mentor: Tihana Petrović Leš (mentor)
• Committee member: Sanja Lončar (predsjednik povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Tihana Rubić (član povjerenstva)
• Granter: University of Zagreb; Faculty of Humanities and Social Sciences; (Department of Ethnology and Cultural Anthropology); Zagreb
• Defense date and country: 2020-06-01, Croatia
• Scientific / art field, discipline and subdiscipline: HUMANISTIC SCIENCES; Ethnology and Anthropology; Ethnology

Abstract

U ovom radu naglasak je na kraćem muškom i ženkom vunenom kaputiću rekli, izrađenom složenim postupkom pletenja i valjanja. Polazeći od shvaćanja polisistemske teorije, cilj ovog rada je prikazati rekle u suvremenom odijevanju Istočne Hrvatske. Početno istraživanje se sastojalo od kritičkog iščitavanja literature i analize medijskog diskursa. Kada je riječ o institucijama i proizvođačima, istraživanje se ograničilo na područje Vukovarsko-srijemske županije pa su provedeni polustrukturirani intervjui u muzejima u Vinkovcima i Županji te u obrtima „Valens“ i „Rukotvorine Benčević“. Istraživanjem aspekta potrošača, koji uključuje njihovu potrebu za kupovinom i nošenjem kaputića u svakodnevnom životu, uključeni su kupci porijeklom sa šireg prostora Slavonije. Osim toga za potrebe istraživanja posjećeni su etno sajam u Vukovaru, manifestacija Pokladno jahanje u Vinkovcima i poklon galerija „Fantazija“ u Vukovaru. Zaključuje se kako muzeji pomažu u rekonstrukciji i obnovi valjanih kaputića te kako je unatrag 60 godina proces valjanja zamijenjen računalnim procesom izrade replika. Osim u promjeni tehnike dolazi do promjene u materijalu, krojevima, bojama, uzorcima i proizvodima. Danas su replike kaputića moderan i svakodnevni odjevni predmet kojim se iskazuje slavonski, šokački identitet.

Abstract (english)

In this paper, the emphasis is on a shorter male and female woolen coat, rekla, produced by a complex process of knitting and rolling. Based on the polysystem theory, the aim of this paper is to present reklas in contemporary clothing of Eastern Croatia. The initial research consisted of critical reading of the literature and the analysis of media discourse. When it comes to institutions and producers, the research was limited to the Vukovar-Srijem County, therefore semi-structured interviews were conducted in museums in Vinkovci and Županja and on premises of „Valens” and „Rukotvorine Benčević" craft workshops. The consumers’ aspect, which includes the habit of buying and wearing coats in everyday life, includes buyers from the wider area of Slavonia. In addition, for the needs of the research, ethno fair in Vukovar, event Carnival riding in Vinkovci and gift gallery "Fantazija" in Vukovar were visited. It is concluded that museums help in the reconstruction and renewal of rolled coats and that 60 years ago the rolling process was replaced by a computer process of making replicas. Except for the change in technique, there has been a significant change in materials, cuts, colors, patterns and products. Today, replica coats represent modern and everyday item of clothing that expresses Slavonian, šokački, identity.

• Keywords: rekle; tradicijsko odijevanje; suvremeno odijevanje; Istočna Hrvatska; identitet
• Keywords (english): rekla; traditional clothing; contemporary clothing; Eastern Croatia; identity
• Language: croatian
• URN:NBN: urn:nbn:hr:131:040089
• Study programme: Title: Ethnology and Cultural Anthropology (double major); Study programme type: university; Study level: graduate; Academic / professional title: magistar/magistra etnologije i kulturne antropologije (magistar/magistra etnologije i kulturne antropologije)
• Type of resource: Text
• File origin: Born digital
• Access conditions: Access restricted to students and staff of home institution
• Created on: 2020-07-13 09:55:04