| Abstract | Inga Kostinčer Bregovac (Maribor, 1925. - Zagreb, 1973.) jedna je od najznačajnijih hrvatskih kazališnih kostimografkinja u razdoblju nakon Drugog svjetskog rata te je ostvarila prepoznatljiv opus. Svojim radom postavila je kostimografiju kao samostalnu profesiju, a jednako je važan i njen doprinos konačnoj afirmaciji i ugledu kostimografije u širem kazališnom kontekstu. Stoga, rad Inge Kostinčer Bregovac također je značajan i u kontekstu afirmacije ženskog identiteta u umjetnosti čije je djelovanje sve do međuratnog perioda bilo ograničeno na ručni rad u tekstilu, odnosno umjetnički obrt. Za vrijeme svog kratkog, ali iznimno plodnog radnog vijeka ostvarila je preko tri stotine kostimografskih rješenja i definirala daljnji razvoj hrvatske kostimografije, a svojim pedagoškim radom na Akademiji primijenjenih umjetnosti u Zagrebu odgojila je budući narastaj kostimografkinja i kostimografa. Za kostimografski opus Inge Kostinčer Bregovac iznimno je važno razdoblje 1950-ih kada se formira njen autorski potpis ali kada definira temeljna polazišta rada, odnosno pristup kostimografa kazališnom djelu. Formiranje njenog stila odredile su tendencije u suvremenoj likovnoj umjetnosti, a naročito rad skupine EXAT 51 s čijim je članovima, arhitektima i scenografima Vjenceslavom Richterom i Božidarom Rašicom redovito surađivala. Estetika apstraktnog likovnog izraza odrazila se u njenom stilu, a ideja sinteze odredila je autoričin pristup radu inzistiranjem na uskoj suradnji s redateljem i scenografom u oblikovanju vizualnog identiteta i osnovnih ideja predstave. Stoga, svojim radom je doprinijela i ukidanju razlike čiste i primijenjene umjetnosti, a njena kostimografska ostvarenja možemo valorizirati kao autonomna umjetnička djela. Izvrsna kostimografska rješenja inspirirana aktualnim modnim trendovima poput New Looka također su dio njenog kostimografskog potpisa, a s jednakim uspjehom oblikovala je kostime povijesne, odnosno folklorne tematike interpretirane kroz suvremeni izraz. Inga Kostinčer Bregovac u svom iznimno plodnom opusu vješto je sublimirala progresivne likovne tendencije i modne trendove sto je pozicionira kao jednu od značajnih sudionica u stvaranju vizualne kulture 1950-ih u Hrvatskoj. |
| Abstract (english) | Inga Kostincer Bregovac (Maribor, 1925 - Zagreb, 1973) is one of the most important Croatian theater costume designers in the period after the Second World War and has created a recognizable body of work. With her work, she established costume design as an independent profession, and her contribution to the final affirmation and reputation of costume design in the wider theater context is equally important. Therefore, the work of Inga Kostinčer Bregovac is also significant in the context of the affirmation of female identity in art, whose activity until the interwar period was limited to handwork in textiles, that is, artistic craft. During her short, but extremely fruitful career, she created over three hundred costume design solutions and defined the further development of Croatian costume design, and through her teaching work at the Academy of Applied Arts in Zagreb, she trained the future generation of female and male costume designers. For Inga Kostinčer Bregovac's costume design work, the period of the 1950s is extremely important, when her signature style is formed, but also the time when she defines the basic starting points of the work, that is, the costume designer's approach to theater work. The formation of her style was determined by tendencies in contemporary fine art, and especially by the work of the group EXAT 51, with whose members, architects, and scenographers Vjenceslav Richter and Božidar Rašica, she regularly collaborated. The aesthetics of abstract art was reflected in her style, and the idea of synthesis determined the author's approach to work by insisting on close cooperation with the director and scenographer in shaping the visual identity and basic ideas of the play. Therefore, with her work, she contributed to the abolition of the distinction between pure and applied art, and her costume creations can be valued as autonomous works of art. Excellent costuming solutions inspired by current fashion trends such as the New Look are also signature part of her costume design, and with equal success she designed costumes of historical or folklore themes interpreted through a contemporary expression. In her extremely prolific oeuvre, Inga Kostinčer Bregovac skillfully sublimated progressive artistic tendencies and fashion trends, which positions her as one of the significant participants in the creation of visual culture in the 1950s in Croatia. |
