| Abstract | Povijesne tkanine sačuvane u liturgijskim zbirkama na području nekadašnje Porečke biskupije dosad nisu bile sustavno istražene ni katalogizirane pa se kao osnovni cilj ovoga rada postavlja izrada kataloga te pojedinačna analiza i kontekstualizacija svila nastalih tijekom ranog novog vijeka. Jedan od ciljeva ove disertacije jest i ukazati na slojevitost suvremene metodologije znanstvenog bavljenja povijesnim tekstilom koja podrazumijeva poznavanje tehničkih specifičnosti tkanina te vještinu njihova iščitavanja i opisivanja. Suvremena metodologija datiranja i atribuiranja povijesnih tkanina, ako je riječ o svilama s uzorkom, zasniva se na provođenju stilske analize na temelju koje se tkanina prema tipologiji dekora grupira u određeno stilsko razdoblje. Za pobliže određivanje mjesta i vremena nastanka pojedine tkanine, osim estetskih i likovnih svojstva predloška, ključni su podatci dobiveni analizom njezine konstrukcije. U povijesnom razdoblju obuhvaćenom ovom disertacijom, odnosno od 1420. do 1797. godine, istarski poluotok bio je podijeljen između dva politička entiteta – Mletačke Republike i Habsburškog Carstva te obilježen njihovim stalnim sukobima. U okviru ove disertacije katalogom su obuhvaćene župe na prostoru nekadašnje Porečke biskupije definirane na temelju popisa lokaliteta župa koje se spominju u sačuvanim knjigama pastoralnih vizitacija Porečke biskupije iz 17. i 18. stoljeća. Riječ je o trideset i dvije župe koje su se nalazile u mletačkom dijelu biskupije te deset župa koje su pripadale habsburškom dijelu. Evidentiranje, katalogiziranje te sustavno bavljenje povijesnim tekstilom u Hrvatskoj još je uvijek u začetku. Predložene atribucije i datacije brojnih tekstilnih predmeta u Hrvatskoj argumentirane su isključivo na temelju vizualnih karakteristika uzoraka, dok tehnički elementi materijala nisu smatrani relevantnima. Značajni pomaci u tom smislu napravljeni su tek nedavno. Znanstvena istraživanja tekstilne baštine na području Istre pa tako i nekadašnje Porečke biskupije u potpunosti su izostala, a najznačajniji doprinos u njihovu evidentiranju odnosi se na stručne i pregledne, povijesne i historiografske radove te inventare autora prve polovice 20. stoljeća. Na prostoru nekadašnje Porečke biskupije evidentirano je ukupno sto trideset svila koje su nastale u razdoblju ranog novog vijeka. Najstariji primjeri jesu baršuni iz sredine i druge polovice 15. stoljeća. Najveći broj sačuvanih svila nastao je u 18. stoljeću, a među njima dominiraju one talijanske provenijencije. Značajnu skupinu čine i svile s dekorima koji su bili osmišljeni za crkvene naručitelje, a koje su uglavnom nastale na području regije Veneto, odnosno u Veneciji. Vrijednu grupu predmeta čine primjeri figuralnog veza iz 16. stoljeća. |
| Abstract (english) | The historical textiles preserved in the liturgical collections across the area of the former Diocese of Poreč have not been systematically researched and catalogued until now. Therefore, the main goal of this thesis is to create a catalogue and analyze as well as contextualize silks from the area dating to the Early Modern Age. One of the goals of this dissertation is to demonstrate the complexities of the contemporary methodology of scholarly research of historical textiles, which comprises of a familiarity with technical specificities of textiles as well as a proficiency in analyzing and describing them. The contemporary methodology of dating and attributing historical textiles, when it comes to patterned silks, is based on a stylistic analysis, which classifies textiles according to the typology of their ornaments and dates them to a particular stylistic period. For a more precise identification of where and when the textile was made, aside from its aesthetic and visual properties, it is crucial to consider the information gained from analyzing its construction. This dissertation covers the historical period between 1420 and 1797, when the Istrian peninsula was divided between two political entities – the Republic of Venice and the Habsburg Empire. This was also a time of their constant conflicts, which marked the territory of Istria. The unstable political situation, wars and disease epidemics affected the economy of Istria at the time, which is why the period is marked by one of the biggest social and demographic crises and poverty, which clearly affected commissions as well. The catalogue of this thesis encompasses all parishes on the territory of the former Diocese of Poreč. The territory of the Diocese is reconstructed with regard to the list of parishes mentioned in the manuscripts of pastoral visits of the Poreč Diocese from the 17th and the 18th centuries. There were altogether 32 parishes in the Venetian part of the Diocese and 10 parishes in the Habsburg area. Documenting, cataloguing and the systematic scholarly research of historical textiles in Croatia have only begun. Some travel writers, conservationists and collectors made records of several textiles in Croatian church and monastery collections in as early as the 19th century. However, the most significant progress made in the systematic documentation of the subject is rather recent. Croatian art historians in the 20th century continued to demonstrate a lack of interest in historical textiles, which resulted in highly selective publications of items from cathedral and convent treasuries. Finally, it should be noted that the suggested attributions and dates of numerous textile items in Croatia are entirely supported by visual characteristics of patterns, while technical elements of the materials are overlooked. Substantial advances regarding that were made only recently. Scholarly research of textile heritage in Istria, and thus in the former Poreč Diocese, are virtually non-existent. The most important contribution to the documenting of historical textiles in Istria is contained in specialized articles, overviews as well as historic and historiographic texts, from the first half of the 20th century. There have been records of 130 silks altogether made in the Early Modern Age on the territory of the former Diocese of Poreč. The oldest examples are velvets from the middle and the second half of the 15th century. The majority of the preserved silks date from the 18th century, most of which are of Italian provenance. Another significant part of the catalogue is a number of silks with ornaments that were specifically designed for church commissions, mostly made in the Veneto region, that is, Venice. Examples of figural embroidery from the 16th century are a valuable part of the collection of the Poreč Diocese as well. |
