Title Suvremena moda kao događaj : novi mediji i preobrazbe tijela Title (english) Contemporary fashion as an event : the new media and body transformation Author Petra Krpan Mentor Žarko Paić (mentor)Mentor Boris Senker (mentor)Committee member Nikica Gilić (član povjerenstva)Committee member Žarko Paić (član povjerenstva)Committee member Ivana Keser Battista (član povjerenstva)Granter University of Zagreb Defense date and country 2021-02-24, Croatia Scientific / art field, HUMANISTIC SCIENCES Scientific / art field, HUMANISTIC SCIENCES Universal decimal classificationUDC ) 82 - Literature. Comparative literature Abstract U doktorskoj disertaciji Suvremena moda i tijelo - novi mediji i transformacija modnog događaja, pokušat će se uspostaviti nužan interdisciplinaran odnos između područja i pojma suvremene mode koja se pojavljuje nakon 1980-ih godina 20. stoljeća, novih medija kao nove mogućnosti razvoja modnog procesa i događaja te njihova značajna utjecaja na razumijevanje mode i teorija mode nakon postmoderne kao nove vizualne semiotike. Ova disertacija u istraživačkom i znanstvenom smislu, razvit će tezu kako suvremena moda ne opstaje bez utjecaja medija na tijelo i odjevni objekt te istovremeno mijenja logiku djelovanja u virtualnom svijetu na način da se moda-slika pojavljuje na zaslonu medijskih ekrana kao nova slika, ali i u performativnom obliku kao moda-tijelo. Rad će također pokazati mogućnosti suvremene mode i načine reprezentacije tijela u modi kroz ulogu novih medija i izvedbenih umjetnosti. Suvremena moda se pojavljuje medijski kao reinterpretacija i reizvedba događaja. Tijelo u modi sada je u nesvakidašnjem djelovanju, iz razloga što moda, posebno nakon 1990-ih godina 20. stoljeća, predstavlja sjecište različitih novomedijskih i izvedbenih oblika te će se u disertaciji pokazati zašto dolazi do nužne korelacije područja. Preciznije, zašto su mediji ti koji sada povezuju pojam mode i tijela u modno tijelo. U ovom doktorskom radu polazimo od postavke suprotne uobičajenom pristupu dvoznačnosti mode. Naime, nerijetko se dvojna narav suvremene mode razmatra ili kao rezultat vizualne semiotike – označitelj, označeno, znak u slikovnoj reprezentaciji tijela–ili pak kao tijelo u procesu postajanja Drugim i različitim. Povezujući tekst i sliku, znakovni sustav i vizualni kod, nastojat ćemo pokazati zašto se i na koji način u virtualnom svijetu moda pojavljuje kao tijelo u događaju. To znači da preuzimamo iz suvremene estetike i filozofije umjetnosti ključan pojam za čin ove sinteze teksta i slike. Riječ je o pojmu događaja, kako su ga tematizirali mislioci francuskoga poststrukturalizma, osobito Deleuze i Derrida. Moda u svojem suvremenom načinu izvedbe postaje interaktivni događaj. Na taj se način može modi dati mogućnost autonomnog jezika vlastite stvaralačke moći nastajanja novih tendencija, stilova, trendova, a umjesto podjele na realnu i eksperimentalnu modu posrijedi je moda koja svoj identitet stvara u procesu događanja performativnosti tijela. Stoga je nužno izvesti kako se semiotički model u novim medijima premjestio s teksta na ekran, iz jezika u kod te kako se moda istražuje kao nova mogućnost tjelesnog događaja u modnom objektu. Cilj ove doktorske disertacije i istraživanja jest:(a) dovesti u vezu pojam mode u interdisciplinarnom području humanističkih znanosti s istovjetnom situacijom u suvremenoj umjetnosti i vizualnoj kulturi; (b) objasniti kako su se teorije mode razvile danas do zasebnog polja autonomne discipline u preklapanju s različitim izvedbenim studijima kulture (performance studies); (c) pokazati raznolike mehanizme djelovanja medija na tijelo u modi (modno tijelo) i na događaj u modi (modni događaj). Naposljetku, doktorski rad ima za cilj redefiniranje pojma modnog tijela koji se pojavljuje u teorijama mode danas. Razlog možemo vidjeti u tome što su novi mediji u digitalno doba uvelike već promijenili ne samo našu percepciju o tjelesnosti tijela, već i čitav spoznajni okvir u kojem se moda od pasivne reprezentacije društvenog kazališta uzdiže do interaktivnog događaja koji se može razumjeti jedino ako pristupimo modi interdisciplinarno, razmatrajući je složenim fenomenom društveno-kulturalnoga procesa nastanka novih identiteta. Modno tijelo se, dakle, ne može više misliti kao puku izvedbu tijela iz područja društva, kulture, umjetnosti na ono što preostaje modi u takvom činu redukcije. Umjesto toga, potrebno je modno tijelo osloboditi bilo kakve stege i funkcionalne uklopljenosti u druge mehanizme društvene reprodukcije. Za takav pristup nužno je razviti posve drukčije shvaćanje ne samo mode, već i performativnoga događaja i onog što novi mediji u svojem ubrzanom razvitku tehnološko-estetskih mogućnosti otvaraju kao temeljni problem ─ odnosa između kreativnoga dizajna i preobrazbe tijela u sklop s onu stranu razlike prirode i kulture, ljudskog i neljudskog.
Abstract (english) In my PhD dissertation Contemporary fashion and body - the new media and fashion event transformation I will try to establish the necessary interdisciplinary relationship between the field and the notion of contemporary fashion that emerges after the 1980s of the 20th century, new media as new opportunities for the development of the fashion process and events and their significant influence on the understanding of fashion and fashion theories after the postmodern as the new visual semiotics. This dissertation in the research and scientific sense will develop the thesis that contemporary fashion cannot survive without the media influencing the body and and fashion object, and at the same time changes the logic of acting in the virtual world by fashion-image appearing on the display of the media screen as the new image, but also in the performative sense as the fashion-body. The work will also show the possibilities of contemporary fashion and ways of representing the body in fashion through the role of new media and performing arts. Contemporary fashion appears as the reinterpretation and re-performance of the event. The body in fashion nowadays has an unusual role, because fashion, especially after the 1990s, represents the intersection of various new media and performative forms, and this dissertation will show why there is a necessary correlation of the domains. More precisely, the question we need to answer is why the media nowadays combine the terms fashion and body into the fashion body. Identification of the fashion language as well as the sign system of fashion is of great importance in the research, as we explore the attempt to create a new identity construction, gender/sex problems within fashion, as well as the transition from class-social model to visual semiotics in the postmodern theories of fashion. This dissertation represents the thesis of the ambiguity of fashion: on the one hand fashion as visual semiotics, and on the other fashion as the body in the process. Contemporary fashion design thus is one of the most complex forms today. Its relation between design and body is even more complex to display in theory. The construction of such an image of contemporary fashion design reveals different aspects of the body. Images and bodies are linked in this case of understanding contemporary fashion. The difficulty of understanding contemporary fashion design and its subject/body lies in the text of the image, or to be precise in the texts of images. Texts of images of the body reveal true meaning. But one must ask, if there is true meaning in contemporary fashion design and if contemporary fashion design has its subject/body? Finding this new language, this new text means gaining new meaning. Furthermore, it is in question if this meaning is true? The way and process of constructing new images, new texts and new bodies now get wined together when exploring the problematic of understanding contemporary fashion. Contemporary fashion perceived only as an image lacks meaning although its visual component is of importance. However, visual in contemporary fashion paradoxically is not its prime importance. Language on the other hand is not imageless. Discovering meaning in contemporary fashion, in this case, must follow the path of revealing what the image part in language is. By exploring image and language separately, we gain knowledge and meaning, however when it comes to understanding meaning of contemporary fashion it must be always put into context with its body/subject. The body/subject depends on this inter winding process. Furthermore, the main problem of this particular process in contemporary fashion lies in the problematic of fragmentation of image, language and subject/body. In that case we do not comprehend the whole meaning as it has already been transformed in the process of fragmentation. Understanding images of contemporary fashion consequently means understanding the impact of new media on both image and language. Not only have new media brought a different way of understanding in general but also a completely new birthplace of image and language. New media are always plural and by being so they offer different levels of meanings. If we were to put into perspective the complex issue of image, language and body/subject when exploring contemporary fashion, we must firstly become aware of the presence of a filtered image, language and body/subject. The debate on language and image of new media are crucial as they help position the body of contemporary fashion. To understand fashion means not only to explore consequences of the language and image of new media, but to place the body/subject of contemporary fashion into variable context. It has become clear that without understanding language and image, it is difficult to begin exploring the body/subject problematic. These perception ploys are well present in contemporary fashion and help redefine the body/subject. Fashion in semiotics appears as a text whose layers have different levels of meaning, while in performing in the virtual world fashion appears as the body in an event. The event is now crucial as a place for the new interpretations of fashion. It is therefore necessary to show how the semiotic model in the new media has moved from text to screen, from language to code, and how fashion is explored as the new possibility of a physical event in a fashion object.
Keywords
suvremena moda
događaj
novi mediji
tijelo
Keywords (english)
contemporary fashion
event
new media
the body
Language croatian DOI https://doi.org/10.17234/diss.2021.8376 URN:NBN urn:nbn:hr:131:161561 Promotion 2021 Study programme Title: Postgraduate (Doctoral) Program in Literature, Performing Art, Film and Culture Type of resource Text Extent 233 str. File origin Born digital Access conditions Open access Terms of use Created on 2021-03-29 09:14:48
